Day 3 - Enoteca e Ristorante de Roero
Our dinner the first night was with Paulo Scavino and Domenico Clerico at Enoteca e Ristorante de Roero. This is a pretty hidden place that feels kinda clubby (except for the wacky art work). Wine is an important part of this restaurant, they keep a strong cellar at excellent prices with an obvious specialty in Piemonte wines. They use good stemware - it goes a long way in showing that you care about what's in the glass and its appreciation.
Dinner was an excellent chance to have time with two strong and experienced growers who have been really important in the evolution of winemaking in this region. Earlier in the day we visited with Scavino in his cellars and tasted current releases. Most notable about this tasting is his stylistic adjustment. He's using a bit less new oak now than before, so the aromas are a bit more complex and less loaded with vanilla. His Barolo crus in 2000 and 2001 are very strong. Scavino is a grower whose wines are excellent but not foolishly priced.
For dinner, we are seated at a table in a private dining room that has commanding dimensions (20 ft ceilings) and hideous paintings. The menu seems a marriage of traditional Piemontese dishes and some creative flair. I'm a little nervous about this, we'll see. We order individually. Long drama...I may faint from lack of food and wine and it's not really the fault of the restaurant. Besides myself there are several Italian clients, brokers and such. Twelve all told. I truly think with a group that size a host should plan at least a bit if not an entire menu and wines in order to minimize awkward, inactive times at the table. When you have no wine in your glass for a long stretch Jay Miller always calls it "wine jail." In this situation that absolutely applied - listening to growers and brokers argue about the first wine for twenty minutes. After all that it was a dud:
Bellavista "Ca del Bosco" frizzante nv. Dull, narrow and flat on the palate. Surprising for a good winery. We had 4 little amuse-bouche...a little precious and only so moving.
A white wine was next, Angelo Gaja's Chardonnay from the 1998 vintage.
Medium-weight, appropriate acidity and tree fruits and a little butterscotch. This showed well and in its prime. A lot like Colin's 95 St. Aubins are now. My first dish was a fancier variation of Carne Crudo that the Chef had jazzed up the plate with an Anchovy sauce - my only allergy (bad news), after reworking, it was tasty and pretty but not the flavor of Osteria Veglio.
The next wine was a Roero Barbera from 2003 that was excellent and modestly priced. Clearly 2003 is the year to hunt Barberas from less special terroirs. I've never had a Roero Barbera of this quality before. The dish for this was Agnolotti filled with Lamb in a stock reduction and tomato glaze. Very solid. The acid in the wine was necessary with the dish.
As a treat, Scavino brought a few of his 98 crus to dinner. He knows I have affection for his wines from that year, especially Bric del Fiasc. What a treat. They showed well and were downed quickly. I consumed mine with the best dish I had this evening, Roasted Baby Goat Leg with Polenta.
At the end of the main course, Domenico, who is a real character, kinda small, full of life, noise, cigarette smoke and curly iron grey hair, and is one who tends to emphasize his points with a fist on the table - (all in good spirits), brought out a mystery wine. He hates to taste his wines at meals with other growers so he brings surprises. Well, he poured the mystery wine in my glass and I blurted out Barolo 1971! I did this after a first sniff, before tasting. Some of the Italians were talking about Amarone...good God!
He eventually took everyone's guesses and then revealed Bourgogno 1961. I was a decade off, but the closest. Sort of like being the last guy cut from the Varsity. The wine showed lovely mature aromas - lots of rose petals, anise, sandalwood, dried black fruit. On the palate it was a few years past its prime as the fruit had started to drop out. Five years ago was probably the end of its peak. I wish I could have re-guessed after tasting but I was too hard-headed. It was very interesting to taste.
Sweets and coffee were good, not particularly notable. Service was professional and crisp but a bit less than fresh (if you catch my drift).
The cellar is worth revisiting for certain.
Dinner was an excellent chance to have time with two strong and experienced growers who have been really important in the evolution of winemaking in this region. Earlier in the day we visited with Scavino in his cellars and tasted current releases. Most notable about this tasting is his stylistic adjustment. He's using a bit less new oak now than before, so the aromas are a bit more complex and less loaded with vanilla. His Barolo crus in 2000 and 2001 are very strong. Scavino is a grower whose wines are excellent but not foolishly priced.
For dinner, we are seated at a table in a private dining room that has commanding dimensions (20 ft ceilings) and hideous paintings. The menu seems a marriage of traditional Piemontese dishes and some creative flair. I'm a little nervous about this, we'll see. We order individually. Long drama...I may faint from lack of food and wine and it's not really the fault of the restaurant. Besides myself there are several Italian clients, brokers and such. Twelve all told. I truly think with a group that size a host should plan at least a bit if not an entire menu and wines in order to minimize awkward, inactive times at the table. When you have no wine in your glass for a long stretch Jay Miller always calls it "wine jail." In this situation that absolutely applied - listening to growers and brokers argue about the first wine for twenty minutes. After all that it was a dud:
Bellavista "Ca del Bosco" frizzante nv. Dull, narrow and flat on the palate. Surprising for a good winery. We had 4 little amuse-bouche...a little precious and only so moving.
A white wine was next, Angelo Gaja's Chardonnay from the 1998 vintage.
Medium-weight, appropriate acidity and tree fruits and a little butterscotch. This showed well and in its prime. A lot like Colin's 95 St. Aubins are now. My first dish was a fancier variation of Carne Crudo that the Chef had jazzed up the plate with an Anchovy sauce - my only allergy (bad news), after reworking, it was tasty and pretty but not the flavor of Osteria Veglio.
The next wine was a Roero Barbera from 2003 that was excellent and modestly priced. Clearly 2003 is the year to hunt Barberas from less special terroirs. I've never had a Roero Barbera of this quality before. The dish for this was Agnolotti filled with Lamb in a stock reduction and tomato glaze. Very solid. The acid in the wine was necessary with the dish.
As a treat, Scavino brought a few of his 98 crus to dinner. He knows I have affection for his wines from that year, especially Bric del Fiasc. What a treat. They showed well and were downed quickly. I consumed mine with the best dish I had this evening, Roasted Baby Goat Leg with Polenta.
At the end of the main course, Domenico, who is a real character, kinda small, full of life, noise, cigarette smoke and curly iron grey hair, and is one who tends to emphasize his points with a fist on the table - (all in good spirits), brought out a mystery wine. He hates to taste his wines at meals with other growers so he brings surprises. Well, he poured the mystery wine in my glass and I blurted out Barolo 1971! I did this after a first sniff, before tasting. Some of the Italians were talking about Amarone...good God!
He eventually took everyone's guesses and then revealed Bourgogno 1961. I was a decade off, but the closest. Sort of like being the last guy cut from the Varsity. The wine showed lovely mature aromas - lots of rose petals, anise, sandalwood, dried black fruit. On the palate it was a few years past its prime as the fruit had started to drop out. Five years ago was probably the end of its peak. I wish I could have re-guessed after tasting but I was too hard-headed. It was very interesting to taste.
Sweets and coffee were good, not particularly notable. Service was professional and crisp but a bit less than fresh (if you catch my drift).
The cellar is worth revisiting for certain.
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