Weekend In Paris
FRIDAY, March 31st
Gerard Besson lost a star a few years ago. I hear he's on fire to get it back. That's where I want to be: an experienced 2 star Chef who's on a mission at 1 star prices.
Amuse Bouche: Fab play on Gazpaxho with velvety texture, great acidity and beautiful marinated Turbot to garnish. First wine is a 99 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur from Francois Raveneau. I can never get enough of his wines. I think he's the best grower in Chablis pretty easily. Second wine is 85 Echezeaux from Mugneret-Gibourg. Getting my Burgundy fix in Paris. Pretty little room, very classic but warm and tasteful, and brightly lit, as most of these sorts of places are.
I tell the Captain to ask Chef to cook for the two wines I have chosen and to give him a glass of both. The first thing I receive is just honest and delicious: Cold-poached oysters with a big blast of sea salt and a light but creamy cabbagey relish. Super Bon! Great with the Chablis, which is slowly waking after decanting. Pretty wound up stuff.
Next is a plate of lovely asparagus, black truffle and coddled egg. Next is a controversial sort of course, but I like it: raw sea scallops warmed with a truffle veloute and served with poached leeks. Modern/peasant dish. Hhmmfgh! Works with the wine. That's the point.
So I'm watching this English family have dinner here and they are so sweet and human, but I must admit that they crack me up. Papa, sweet pretty darn good French, Mother seems nice, quiet, no hard looks. Three teenage children: oldest tries to be Dad, tall and bad haircut, blue blazer (this has been me too much in the past, oooff), middle son is maybe 16 has dred-locks and a prep school tie - classic, and sister, the baby, is embarrassingly taller than the fellas and has very, very flat sparkly shoes on with a conservative black frock. Conversations are all about who is dating who. Painful, painful memories of Mom and Dad openly chatting up my girl fiends from high school in front of my little brothers. The Italians, two tables, away smoke so seriously you would not be surprised to see tobacco come out of their noses when they exhale. They are drinking Chambolle-Musigny like water. Should be fun when they arrive at the digestif stage of the meal!
The red is very good but not special. It has the ripeness of good 90's and has the perfume around the edges of a great grand cru, but it still has some hard tannins (not a lot but a little green - stems anyone?) And just isn't that focused. My thought is interrupted by either a concert or some sort of big "manifestation" or protest. The protests aren't really very angry. They are mostly 20 year olds looking for stuff to do.
Okay, the dred-locked English kid and his mom are in a race to knock off their off-vintage Pichon Longueville. Good Job! More on the way. I wonder if they and the Italians will go drinking later, I mean Mom and Gerald (I name everyone in the room right away) and the tobacco-enthralled Italians? Gianni has his button-down collar running free - a classic Milanese move. His watch is probably backwards...
Much more importantly, I think I have just had the best pigeon/squab of my life. I only remember eating it with my hand (probably to the great upset to the Japanese along side me). The two girls probably thought I may attack them at any time. Barbarian. Yes, I might be...
The back waiter asks if I want cheese. I ask if she is serious. It's time for a bloody plate of something for the Echezeaux. Chef decides to try to kill me. He sends an aged Charolais entrecote. Maybe 16 - 18 ounces. I recognize a challenge. I crush him. He is (I am playing) so desolated? Next are three cheeses: Charolais, Livarot and a great Reblochon. Superb!
A very good millefeuille with the tiniest of gathered early spring strawberries. Nicely done. Good pastry. Good pastry cream. Nice woodsy little berries. Okay I'm done. Time to visit the kitchen and chat with Chef. Classic stuff. Not cheap...at all, but a good list, aware staff in a pleasant room.
After a few nips with Gerard I am ready for a taxi...very ready.
Gerard Besson lost a star a few years ago. I hear he's on fire to get it back. That's where I want to be: an experienced 2 star Chef who's on a mission at 1 star prices.
Amuse Bouche: Fab play on Gazpaxho with velvety texture, great acidity and beautiful marinated Turbot to garnish. First wine is a 99 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur from Francois Raveneau. I can never get enough of his wines. I think he's the best grower in Chablis pretty easily. Second wine is 85 Echezeaux from Mugneret-Gibourg. Getting my Burgundy fix in Paris. Pretty little room, very classic but warm and tasteful, and brightly lit, as most of these sorts of places are.
I tell the Captain to ask Chef to cook for the two wines I have chosen and to give him a glass of both. The first thing I receive is just honest and delicious: Cold-poached oysters with a big blast of sea salt and a light but creamy cabbagey relish. Super Bon! Great with the Chablis, which is slowly waking after decanting. Pretty wound up stuff.
Next is a plate of lovely asparagus, black truffle and coddled egg. Next is a controversial sort of course, but I like it: raw sea scallops warmed with a truffle veloute and served with poached leeks. Modern/peasant dish. Hhmmfgh! Works with the wine. That's the point.
So I'm watching this English family have dinner here and they are so sweet and human, but I must admit that they crack me up. Papa, sweet pretty darn good French, Mother seems nice, quiet, no hard looks. Three teenage children: oldest tries to be Dad, tall and bad haircut, blue blazer (this has been me too much in the past, oooff), middle son is maybe 16 has dred-locks and a prep school tie - classic, and sister, the baby, is embarrassingly taller than the fellas and has very, very flat sparkly shoes on with a conservative black frock. Conversations are all about who is dating who. Painful, painful memories of Mom and Dad openly chatting up my girl fiends from high school in front of my little brothers. The Italians, two tables, away smoke so seriously you would not be surprised to see tobacco come out of their noses when they exhale. They are drinking Chambolle-Musigny like water. Should be fun when they arrive at the digestif stage of the meal!
The red is very good but not special. It has the ripeness of good 90's and has the perfume around the edges of a great grand cru, but it still has some hard tannins (not a lot but a little green - stems anyone?) And just isn't that focused. My thought is interrupted by either a concert or some sort of big "manifestation" or protest. The protests aren't really very angry. They are mostly 20 year olds looking for stuff to do.
Okay, the dred-locked English kid and his mom are in a race to knock off their off-vintage Pichon Longueville. Good Job! More on the way. I wonder if they and the Italians will go drinking later, I mean Mom and Gerald (I name everyone in the room right away) and the tobacco-enthralled Italians? Gianni has his button-down collar running free - a classic Milanese move. His watch is probably backwards...
Much more importantly, I think I have just had the best pigeon/squab of my life. I only remember eating it with my hand (probably to the great upset to the Japanese along side me). The two girls probably thought I may attack them at any time. Barbarian. Yes, I might be...
The back waiter asks if I want cheese. I ask if she is serious. It's time for a bloody plate of something for the Echezeaux. Chef decides to try to kill me. He sends an aged Charolais entrecote. Maybe 16 - 18 ounces. I recognize a challenge. I crush him. He is (I am playing) so desolated? Next are three cheeses: Charolais, Livarot and a great Reblochon. Superb!
A very good millefeuille with the tiniest of gathered early spring strawberries. Nicely done. Good pastry. Good pastry cream. Nice woodsy little berries. Okay I'm done. Time to visit the kitchen and chat with Chef. Classic stuff. Not cheap...at all, but a good list, aware staff in a pleasant room.
After a few nips with Gerard I am ready for a taxi...very ready.
posted by Moderator at 1:43 PM
1 Comments:
Tony,
Wonder if Gianni was wearing Versace or D&G? Loved the description of the funki-fied English crew. I can just picture you bent over your finger-licking squab (certainly dressed de riguer, Paris-style) with a collection of 3 bottles of decadent (trés expensive) wine!
I never thought of naming the people I see out at restaurants. I'll try that one! It's fun to read your scoopage on the French scene. Your love of food and wine is evident. I can taste those truffles now....YUM! LOVE the smoky taste.....
Will check in again. Vive la mode francaise!
Pascaline
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