Vintage Snapshots: 2009 France - Bordeaux
I've had a chance to taste through most of the major wine regions of France during the past year. Certainly some of the regions I've had more thorough exposure to for a variety of reasons - not the least of which is commercial viability in retail and restaurant applications.
Bordeaux
As the press has trumpeted, 2009 is a very impressive vintage. The wines have size, richness of texture, density, and reasonable freshness that allow detail to be expressed both of the terroirs and the seasoning during elevage. There are satisfying wines at all price points - if you can stomach the ticket. If I were to complain about anything it may be that some producers have made efforts towards such a rich, forward-drinking style with higher alcohols that there are wines that are fantastic to drink as young wines, but I have reservations about the balance of acid to alcohol for rewarding long-term cellaring.
The best purchases may be in the lesser known appellations like Blaye, Bourg and the Côtes de Castillon (near St. Emilion). This is also a bit of a Renaissance year for estates with great terroirs that have weak recent history but historically great terroirs. Chateau Canon in St Emilion and Chateau Dufort Vivens in Margaux come to mind. This is also the first year pricing is being truly pressed by the strengthening Chinese buyer. Buy what you can and like from 2009 and the previously successful recent years. You may not be able to afford the next great vintage. At all.
Bordeaux
As the press has trumpeted, 2009 is a very impressive vintage. The wines have size, richness of texture, density, and reasonable freshness that allow detail to be expressed both of the terroirs and the seasoning during elevage. There are satisfying wines at all price points - if you can stomach the ticket. If I were to complain about anything it may be that some producers have made efforts towards such a rich, forward-drinking style with higher alcohols that there are wines that are fantastic to drink as young wines, but I have reservations about the balance of acid to alcohol for rewarding long-term cellaring.
The best purchases may be in the lesser known appellations like Blaye, Bourg and the Côtes de Castillon (near St. Emilion). This is also a bit of a Renaissance year for estates with great terroirs that have weak recent history but historically great terroirs. Chateau Canon in St Emilion and Chateau Dufort Vivens in Margaux come to mind. This is also the first year pricing is being truly pressed by the strengthening Chinese buyer. Buy what you can and like from 2009 and the previously successful recent years. You may not be able to afford the next great vintage. At all.
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