AUBERGE DES TEMPLIERS
I was recommended to stay and dine here while visiting producers in Berry. Sancerre and Pouilly sur Loire are just a half an hour or so south.
It is a lovely place to stay - park sort of setting, really talented gardeners - and just an excellent cellar and solid kitchen. I may have to rename the place as "Auberge du Fussy Old Englishmen that Torment the Poor Staff". Probably not a commercial name I guess, but entirely indicative of the guests at that moment in time. I think I became popular with the staff for leaving leftover wine, not changing dishes and not lecturing the staff 24/7 on how to do their jobs, what they should or shouldn't do with the wine they are serving/not asking to speak to the Chef in order to lecture him and not wearing high-water spring pastel colored pants with lace-up clown shoes (3 of these from different guests at the same time).
From the kitchen the best dishes were simple and traditional to the region,Pigeon, Spring Lamb, Smoked Local Salmon, Sandre (river fish). The local chèvres are also highlighted. Specifically Crottin de Chavignol in several stages of aging.
The cellar is loaded with red and white Burgundy and Bordeaux (both with range and maturity) as well as local wines that you expect and a superb champagne selection.
My biggest surprise wine of the trip came from their cellar. A 1967 Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques from Domaine Clair-Dau (a great estate that no longer exists). I ordered it because it was from a great estate and vineyard and from a vintage of mixed reputation that I've had little experience with. So this might be my best shot at enjoying something from that year.
The wine showed great perfume immediately, dark, minerality but flowery sweet red fruit on top. A touch of alcohol. Probably just starting to break up. On the palate the wine showed with good opulence, soft tannins and many of the flavors one expects from the nose along with a nice meaty mid-palate. It was terrific with pigeon and foie gras.
One of my favorite treats in France (and northern Italy) in the spring and summer are the wild strawberries that are served - often with crème fraîche. Paired with a great Chenin Blanc - based sweet wine this is a magnificent treat. I had it with a 1964 Clos du Bourg Vouvray from Huet. Just terrific. The wine has both the acid required by the tart berries, the richness and the decadent sweetness one wishes for.
It is a lovely place to stay - park sort of setting, really talented gardeners - and just an excellent cellar and solid kitchen. I may have to rename the place as "Auberge du Fussy Old Englishmen that Torment the Poor Staff". Probably not a commercial name I guess, but entirely indicative of the guests at that moment in time. I think I became popular with the staff for leaving leftover wine, not changing dishes and not lecturing the staff 24/7 on how to do their jobs, what they should or shouldn't do with the wine they are serving/not asking to speak to the Chef in order to lecture him and not wearing high-water spring pastel colored pants with lace-up clown shoes (3 of these from different guests at the same time).
From the kitchen the best dishes were simple and traditional to the region,Pigeon, Spring Lamb, Smoked Local Salmon, Sandre (river fish). The local chèvres are also highlighted. Specifically Crottin de Chavignol in several stages of aging.
The cellar is loaded with red and white Burgundy and Bordeaux (both with range and maturity) as well as local wines that you expect and a superb champagne selection.
My biggest surprise wine of the trip came from their cellar. A 1967 Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques from Domaine Clair-Dau (a great estate that no longer exists). I ordered it because it was from a great estate and vineyard and from a vintage of mixed reputation that I've had little experience with. So this might be my best shot at enjoying something from that year.
The wine showed great perfume immediately, dark, minerality but flowery sweet red fruit on top. A touch of alcohol. Probably just starting to break up. On the palate the wine showed with good opulence, soft tannins and many of the flavors one expects from the nose along with a nice meaty mid-palate. It was terrific with pigeon and foie gras.
One of my favorite treats in France (and northern Italy) in the spring and summer are the wild strawberries that are served - often with crème fraîche. Paired with a great Chenin Blanc - based sweet wine this is a magnificent treat. I had it with a 1964 Clos du Bourg Vouvray from Huet. Just terrific. The wine has both the acid required by the tart berries, the richness and the decadent sweetness one wishes for.
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