France: Day One lead us to a 13th Century Castle
Our first day followed my usual method on these sorts of trips: go as far as you are going out of the gate as fast as you can. It makes for a hard day but your excitement can carry you through. With that it mind, we flew from Dulles to Charles de Gaulle and then took the TGV (so pleasant and quick) down to Avignon, rented cars at the station and drove the hour up to Rochegude under the brightest moon with the mistral blowing clouds about the sky.
I don't think the troops believed Cindy and me when we told them that at the end of the day we'd be staying in a 13th century castle. It was fun to see their faces (albeit a bit tired) when we went through the tiny, sleepy ancient medieval town and made our way up and into the Chateau.
That evening we drank a little good champagne in front of the gigantic (10 feet wide) fireplace. 1990 Billecart Salmon "Nicolas Salmon" washes away much fatigue! The cooking is not special at the Chateau, but the cellar is very solid. As I organized 8 wines for a tasting at dinner for our group I unfortunately discovered a lot of dusty glasses spoiling some of the wines. 2001 Coteaux du Vernon Condrieu from Vernay was tiring (not unexpected but interesting). The flight of CDP was both top bottling from Chapoutier from ‘98, neither showed as well as I've had them in past, but the ‘98 Cuvee des Cadettes from Chateau La Nerthe showed well and long.
The second flight was all Cote Rotie: ‘99 Jamet, entirely primary and sleeping still but terrifically rich; ‘98 Maison Rouge from Vernay, gave more seductive flavors and texture; and ‘90 La Mouline from Guigal was bouncing out of the glass with it's smokey black fruit, flowery perfume and oakier personality.
Foolishly I agreed to an espresso, armagnac and chatter by that huge fire again with a few of the group. The silly talk became delirious and then silent as we just listened to the wind howl and the fire pop.
I remember the first time I saw towns like this, tasted wines in series like this and shared it with others. I hope everyone in the group was as tired but as excited I was during that first experience. I still am, actually. It happens every time. I think it's the quality of the light.
I don't think the troops believed Cindy and me when we told them that at the end of the day we'd be staying in a 13th century castle. It was fun to see their faces (albeit a bit tired) when we went through the tiny, sleepy ancient medieval town and made our way up and into the Chateau.
That evening we drank a little good champagne in front of the gigantic (10 feet wide) fireplace. 1990 Billecart Salmon "Nicolas Salmon" washes away much fatigue! The cooking is not special at the Chateau, but the cellar is very solid. As I organized 8 wines for a tasting at dinner for our group I unfortunately discovered a lot of dusty glasses spoiling some of the wines. 2001 Coteaux du Vernon Condrieu from Vernay was tiring (not unexpected but interesting). The flight of CDP was both top bottling from Chapoutier from ‘98, neither showed as well as I've had them in past, but the ‘98 Cuvee des Cadettes from Chateau La Nerthe showed well and long.
The second flight was all Cote Rotie: ‘99 Jamet, entirely primary and sleeping still but terrifically rich; ‘98 Maison Rouge from Vernay, gave more seductive flavors and texture; and ‘90 La Mouline from Guigal was bouncing out of the glass with it's smokey black fruit, flowery perfume and oakier personality.
Foolishly I agreed to an espresso, armagnac and chatter by that huge fire again with a few of the group. The silly talk became delirious and then silent as we just listened to the wind howl and the fire pop.
I remember the first time I saw towns like this, tasted wines in series like this and shared it with others. I hope everyone in the group was as tired but as excited I was during that first experience. I still am, actually. It happens every time. I think it's the quality of the light.
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