Beaune-o-licious!
So here we are: Groundhog Day in Burgundy. I return to the same places day after day for the same killer dishes (I did skip in between sometimes in hopes of embarrassing myself a wee bit less). I'm sure there are perfect three-star Michelin experiences to be had - in my opinion I've been to some in the region and found them wanting on some level, though I've not visited Lameloise or Georges Blanc so I am not fully informed. There are reputed one-stars in Beaune and nearby, none of which have knocked me out. Here's my list of what to do where:
Ma Cuisine (Beaune) - Fabienne and Pierre Escoffier's place is very straightforward. Simple regional menu, stupidly rich with a fairly-priced cellar and no-nonsense service. Pampered? No. Does Pierre know his cellar well? Yup. The Sweetbread Terrine Garnished with Foie Gras and Pistachio is fabulous, the Crispy Spiced Pigeon I like even more than Guy Julien's at Beaugraviere (how do they get birds this fatty?!), the Demi-Coquelet Rôti is perfect. Drink older Macon with the Terrine, Côtes de Nuits Grand Cru (maybe Clos de Vougeot?) With the Pigeon and a Puligny 1er cru with the chicken (+/- 7-10 yrs old).
Chez Guy (Gevrey Chambertin). The room is sort of oddly modern in an old rustic feeling town and the style of plating is modern-ish. I dine here specifically for three things: Jambon Persille, which is executed really beautifully and is great with either white or fruity younger wines; the Lentil Soup garnished with melting Foie Gras, and the Joues de Boeuf (beef cheeks) braised in Gevrey Chambertin for 12 hours - this dish wants older wines from the village. The list has a great concentration in wines from growers in town.
Caveau des Arches (Beaune) is built in an old wine cellar in the ramparts in Beaune. The room is charming, service solicitous yet relaxed, and the cellar is broad and very rich. This is the place to open a bottle from a big year and bounce it off of a Charolais Entrecôte Grillée.
Le Gourmandin (Beaune) is a casual place and can be a bit touristy in warmer weather they say. I go for the Steak Tartare, Pommes Frites (fried in Lard, rah) and green salad plate - great quick lunch. The Charolais Beef of the region is chopped to order and the balance of the dish is superb. Have this with a zesty, oaky ‘04 white 1er cru or a juicy ripe ‘03 or ‘05 red from Givry or the southern Cote de Beaune. Oh, and the Gougères are marvelous, tasty and the size of a hand grenade. A perfect start.
Ma Cuisine (Beaune) - Fabienne and Pierre Escoffier's place is very straightforward. Simple regional menu, stupidly rich with a fairly-priced cellar and no-nonsense service. Pampered? No. Does Pierre know his cellar well? Yup. The Sweetbread Terrine Garnished with Foie Gras and Pistachio is fabulous, the Crispy Spiced Pigeon I like even more than Guy Julien's at Beaugraviere (how do they get birds this fatty?!), the Demi-Coquelet Rôti is perfect. Drink older Macon with the Terrine, Côtes de Nuits Grand Cru (maybe Clos de Vougeot?) With the Pigeon and a Puligny 1er cru with the chicken (+/- 7-10 yrs old).
Chez Guy (Gevrey Chambertin). The room is sort of oddly modern in an old rustic feeling town and the style of plating is modern-ish. I dine here specifically for three things: Jambon Persille, which is executed really beautifully and is great with either white or fruity younger wines; the Lentil Soup garnished with melting Foie Gras, and the Joues de Boeuf (beef cheeks) braised in Gevrey Chambertin for 12 hours - this dish wants older wines from the village. The list has a great concentration in wines from growers in town.
Caveau des Arches (Beaune) is built in an old wine cellar in the ramparts in Beaune. The room is charming, service solicitous yet relaxed, and the cellar is broad and very rich. This is the place to open a bottle from a big year and bounce it off of a Charolais Entrecôte Grillée.
Le Gourmandin (Beaune) is a casual place and can be a bit touristy in warmer weather they say. I go for the Steak Tartare, Pommes Frites (fried in Lard, rah) and green salad plate - great quick lunch. The Charolais Beef of the region is chopped to order and the balance of the dish is superb. Have this with a zesty, oaky ‘04 white 1er cru or a juicy ripe ‘03 or ‘05 red from Givry or the southern Cote de Beaune. Oh, and the Gougères are marvelous, tasty and the size of a hand grenade. A perfect start.
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