IT DID NOT TASTE LIKE CHICKEN & OTHER GUSTATORY DELIGHTS

Through a friend who is a dedicated importer and enthusiast for Italian wine we were to spend an afternoon and evening with his brother and wife, Francesco & Giovanna Panella, his mother, Clelia Panella, and the rest of the family in the Massa Martina .

We met Francesco - read big, enthusiastic, rock and roll haircut - and his son Andrea - more current rock and roll haircut and a bit less ebullient - after our tasting at Antonelli near Montefalco. We headed off in our dreadful rental Opel wagon following their muddy Land Rover.

We trailed them for twenty minutes or so and fought our way up unmarked roads and a few dirt tracks to the top of a low plateau surrounded by cleft valleys and higher hills. Francesco hopped out (okay maybe not "hopped" exactly) and told us to get into the Rover as we were headed for a tour of his olive groves et al...

To keep it brief, over the next three or so hours I found new respect for the abilities of this vehicle. We charged and crept our way up and down over every unmarked road in Umbria that we had managed to miss on the way to Francesco's house. After numerous bounces and so many stunning vistas of dense woods, walnut and olive groves, and sheer cleft drops into green valleys we had a pretty good handle on not only the various terroirs of the Massa Martino area but also a variety of truffle hunting preserves and potential wild boar (chingiale) hunting areas.

As the sun began to drop we headed back to the solitary house. Upon arrival it took a little while to break the ice. We all sat a bit formally around a table (which seemed funny after our ride together) and had a sort of stiff visit with Francesco's wife for a bit. After a little salumetti was broken out a treasured homemade coppa came out as well. Coppa is the kind of salumi to have if you like organ meat A LOT. In fact if one organ meat won't do, fresh coppa is perfect because it has about five including brains, eyes, tongue, kidneys, etc...did I mention brains and eyes? Well, Andrea, Francesco's son did and that struck a bit of stark terror into to hearts of some of our party. I knew they would tough it out and consume a slice to be polite - real troopers. Boy, the party was going to get going now!

A 5-liter glass demijohn was then placed on the table; the hue of the liquid inside a deep gold. Ok, maybe suspiciously yellow-gold and a bit cloudy. Francesco explained that this was wine from a neighbor. After tasting the wine I was compelled to ask what he'd done to that neighbor. That brought a good chuckle from Francesco and seemed to relax the group. They were also clearly relieved that something - no matter how vile - was available to wash down the brain/eye loaf that was the homemade coppa. I have to admit that I loved the stuff and ate probably five pieces of it. It's just my kind of thing. I think the only thing that upset my companions more than trying the item was the gusto with which I kept consuming it. For your information it does not taste particularly like chicken.

We moved into the dinner table where an array of Crostini with chicken liver and anchovy paste were waiting along with good local proscuitto and what turned out to be a remarkably tasty frittata with preserved local summer truffles. The dish had just great flavor. After quaffing a little good spumante and after these excellent antipasti my companions were enormously happier and relieved they were done with the eyeballs.

Sitting at the table reminded me a bit of growing up and being at my great grandmother's house. She would sit at the end of the table and monitor your consumption and your face - exactly as Francesco and Alberto's mother did. I hope she liked what she saw because I could not have been much happier - the lady can cook.

The first of two pastas was tagliolini with wild asparagus, olive oil (Francesco's extra virgin) and a little tomato. We had this with good fruity sauvignon and it worked well. The second pasta - spaghetti with preserved local black truffle crushed into it. There was a really generous amount of truffle. We were smiling pretty hard now. What a treat. I thought I'd have to wait for next autumn for more truffle pleasure. I had to have two servings. Really - no choice. (My companions started to glance nervously at each other - as they should have - we were in deep water now - two pasta courses is the beginning of a serious meal).

My favorite dish was next. Beautifully roasted guinea fowl with a sauce that has to have been passed down from the Middle Ages. Made with the livers, wings, and blood among other things. Crazy good flavor. I had to have two portions of that as well. Really...no choice. Immediately after I had two pieces I was then given a gigantic "canapé" of more bird with sauce on a crostini as an alternative method. I was starting to get nervous.

I started to chuckle when the grilled meats came next: pancetta, pork chops, lamb all from a wood burning grill in the kitchen. Fabulous. The others were starting to lose it (eyes rolling back in their heads, no longer able to breathe deeply).

Finally we were on to a series of sweet traditional Easter Pannetone, with some bitter chocolate pieces on the side and plum and orange semolina tarts. Stick a fork in me - please.

What kind and generous people. In every way possible we gained a beginner's understanding of the countryside of Umbria in the best way possible: through the eyes (and stomachs) of people who love and understand the place.

Hofstätter – Gewürztraminer & Blauburgunder

This house is most famous for its Kolbenhof Gewürztraminer and maybe secondarily for its Pinot Noirs, or what is known as Blauburgunder in German - the normal language in the Alto Adige.

The following are results from my tasting with Markus Heinel, the Winemaker for five and a half years now. Markus is an energetic and technically enthused young man originally from Munich. He strikes me very much like a Chef in his outlook and personality.

Pinot Bianco ‘06
Flowery, fat-ish and charming. Good length of apricot fruit.
(88 points)

Gewürztraminer ‘06
Spicy and flowery. Rose and jasmine. Good acids and freshness.
(89 points)

Blauburgunder Meczan ‘05
Charming, soft, easy and fresh. A bit smokey and dark cherry fruit.
(88 points)

Blauburgunder Riserva Mazon ‘03
Rich and deeper than norm. Punchy, toasty fruit. Lacks a little acid. For early consumption.
(89 points)

Blauburgunder San Urbano ‘02
Very much like a looser knit Vougeout 1er cru ‘00. Should be feminine but pretty stunning in a few years.
(92 points)

Blauburgunder San Urbano ‘00 (unreleased) shriveled grapes...
Very Martinelli. Sharp balsamic nose. Huge body and texture for pinot. (91 points)

Blauburgunder San Urbano ‘00 (normal release) Developing complex aromas. Black fresh cherry and crisp minerality that sings with air. Medium to full body but lacey texture (read: not dense). Long finish. (90 points)

Blauburgunder San Urbano ‘98
Very exotic and charming and also meaty nose. Classic Vosne Romanee. A little more alcohol than the material can handle. Will last another 5-7 years pretty easily.
(93 points)

Blauburgunder San Urbano ‘94
Great color for its age. Lots of stemmy tannin. Rich super old school texture. Good freshness. May never die...(89+? Points)

Lagrein ‘06
Punchy, fruity. Simple. Good color.
(86 points)

Lagrein Steinraffler Riserva ‘02
Sweet finishing but a bit light. Expressive. Mineral mossy finish.
(88 points)

Wolfgang, Wine & Coltorenzio

We got a bit of a tour and history lesson from Wolfgang at Colterenzio.
Following are the tasting notes. Weissburgunder is Pinot Blanc.

Pinot Grigio ‘06
Fatter than usual. Bit less aromatic.
(88 points)

Weiβburgunder Weisshaus ‘06
Broad smokey pbl. Calcaire aromas to finish.
(90 points)

Sauv Bl Prail 06
Long finish with snappy apricot. Just bottled. Nose should wake up.
(89 points)

Weiβburgunder Weisshaus ‘98
Caramel, apple skin calcaire again
(86 points)

Chardonnay Formigar ‘05
Nose cross between Morey Chassagne Caillerets and Henri Boillot Meursault. Light toast to finish. Creamy texture, yellow flowers.
(92 points)

Gewürztraminer ‘06
Smokey yellow roses, cinnamon, fruit cocktail, white pepper.
(89 points)

Sauvignon Lafoa ‘05
Ripe, rich, a little toasty. Touch of sage and elderflower. Fat malo palate. Little sauv bl edge to finish. Needs food. Smoked salmon?
(89 points)

Schiava ‘06 (vernatsch)
Between a deep rose and a light pinot color. Dark fruit (granite?). Strawberry underneath. Use like Beaujolais.
(86 points)

Blauburgunder ‘05
Closed on nose. Dark fruit. Very Morey Saint Denis. Very sheer and fresh. Light smoke to finish.
(89 points)

Lagrein Riserva Mantsch ‘03
Spicy sweet moss and raw beef aromas. Sweet tannins and firm acids. Sweet fruit.
(90 points)

Merlot Riserva Siebeneich ‘03
Moderately ripe but still a touch vegetal. Rich texture. Dark for merlot in flavor with a touch of wood to finish.
(87 points)

Pinot Nero Villa Nigra ‘04
Needs to continue to develop. Has sweet fruit. Very dark mineral. Still integrating its oak.
(90+ points)

Merlot Cornell ‘00
Very dill, red fruit aromatics. Toasty dense-ish. Fresh acids.
(88 points)

Cabernet Sauvignon Lafoa ‘03
(450 ft above sea level)
Surprising color, deep. Sleepy, smokey nose. Black fruit and pepper. Plump toasty and fresh but surprisingly dark and deep.
(89 points)

Gewurztraminer Passito Canthus ‘05
Lychee and peach jam. Not the most complex but very satisfying. Use a bit like Tokaji.

A Lesson in Excellence

We've spent the last few days tasting, comparing and understanding the three greatest terroirs for Sangiovese, I think, in the world: Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile de Montalpuciano, and Brunello di Montalcino. We've had a chance to visit and taste with growers from some of the diverse and sprawling areas of Chianti Classico - north of Castellina with Alessandro at Le Filigare and with Paulo at Isole e Olena. Their terroirs are not dissimilar but their winemaking styles are very different. Paulo is Piedmontese and as you might expect he chases aromatics, grace and minerality, while Le Filigare's house-style is more extracted, dense and meaty. Kind of a Fonterutoli style with even more punch.

We also have tasted down south in Castelnuovo Berardenga at Felsina. Their wines are broader with denser tannins, a bit less crisp and more dried fruit flavors - blacker fruits as well. The wines north of Castellina all have crunchier fruit than Felsina. Felsina's wines also take on darker aromatics as they age. Whiskey has been spilled on the sweet leather of the nose. Some tasting notes for Chianti Classico:

CC Le Filigare ‘05
Anise, cranberry, fresh (86 points)

CC Le Filigare Lorenzo ‘05
Dried black plum and currant, smokey punch of fruit and clove. (90 points)

CC Riserva Maria Vittoria Le Filigare ‘04
Complex mineral and Christmas fruitcake aromas. Superb depth and breadth. Sweet dried red fruits with floral and dried meat accents. Top notch. (93+ points)

CC Isole e Olena ‘05
Crisp, clean dried cherry, tangerine aromas and palate. Touch of seaweed. Calcaire dustiness comes through. (85 points)

Cepparello Isole e Olena ‘03
Brooding sangiovese but not dried fruit. Still fresh. Broader wine than usual. Sweet fat tannins. Early drinkability. Fabulous restaurant wine. (92 points)

Cepparello Isole e Olena ‘04
Classic and more powerful and riper than the superb 2001. Excellent density but still firm structure. Needs 10 years truly...okay at least 7 (it won't survive that long unless I buy a lot). Instinctively I believe that it will become exceptionally rich and perfumed. An upgrade from the ‘01. Benchmark wine. (92+ points)

CC Felsina ‘05
Firm and fresh but more generous fruit than the wines up north. They must not have had the rains at the end of harvest to the same degree as the growers further north. (88 points)

CC Riserva Felsina ‘03
Broad, sweet and generous with peppery, meaty caramel to finish. Dried figs and anise...even a touch of basil for perfume in the mouth. Unusual. The reliability and QPR of this estate is remarkable. (91 points)

CC Fonterutoli ‘03
Fat, sweet black currants with a salty mineral snap. No flab. Excellent length for an ’03. (89+ points)

CC Fonterutoli ‘97
Super complex aromas. Notes of venison jerky, dried flowers, cinnamon and saddle leather. Red fruits are drying out in a most pleasant way. (91 points)

Italian Muscle

In the States we live in the world of super-sizing. Huge portions, the most, the best, the fastest and with wine often the most outrageous out-sized powerful stuff. I think there is a grape we've overlooked in our search for muscle...

Sagrantino is the super fruity and tannic powerful wine that historically was made sweet for the church in Umbria. It is far and away the perfect Italian wine introduction for a drinker of gigantic Shiraz, Zinfandel and really ripe Cali Cab. The one caveat being that it requires rich cooking preferably good beef (we were served Chianina, the famous lean Tuscan breed of beef, repeatedly with it).

Almost all the vineyard lands in the area around Montefalco were owned by the Roman Catholic Church, so of course they made wine for the sacrament. In the early part of the century the Church began to sell off lands. In the 70's the first dry (secco) versions of Sagrantino were made. I am sure the end product was vicious as it were fermented with the stems in those days.

We had a chance to visit with two very different growers Arnoldo Caprai (who has made the most commercially successful wines of the area from Sagrantino) and Filippo Antonelli (whom traditionalists seem to consider the most important grower).

Caprai has the winery that immediately brings to mind a Napa sort of operation. Tidy and sizable and making a number of different wines from local and international varietals. They make two bottlings. Collepiano, which has a bit less time in wood and less new wood, and the 25 Anni, which has two years in new oak. The 2001 is just monumental for 25 Anni.

Both wines have great depth of fruit, power and are tightly knit. Age will only ever undo the material so much. One can teach a Wild Boar to dance and wear a dress but you only get so much real grace or softness.

(The boars are a real plague here according to the growers - eating up grapes and hunting the truffles and digging them up).

Antonelli has a more typical feeling operation. The Fattoria is clearly a summer residence for the family that live full time in Rome but Filippo has made this his very full-time occupation. From the first years I tasted his wines ('97 vintage) to his current release (’03), his growth in skill has been apparent. Tannins are silkier, fruit is fresher and the minerality of the wines is more distinct. The ‘03 release is excellent (92 points). His ‘03 Rosso di Montefalco which is mostly Sangiovese is also very good having better aromatics than others we tasted (89 points).

Also along our route we went out of our way to try a few other Sagrantino producers that we had not seen. Two were excellent. The great value of the two was Scacciadiavoli. We tasted their ‘03, ‘01 and their sweet ‘03. All were excellent. Not as oxidative a style as Antonelli but with less wood than Caprai. These wines were just great natural material from a talented farmer. Even the ‘03 had great power without the dried fruit, syrupy character of the vintage. Maintaining freshness in ‘03 took some talent. Look for us to get these wines in the US in a few months. No one brings them now. (2001 - 92 points; 2003 93 points; 2003 sweet 90 points).

Lunch in Umbria: Stunning, Humorous, Savory

Our first and super important job on the first day of this trip: lunch. I have not visited the town of Orvieto previously and as it seemed a reasonable halfway point between Fiumicino (where we landed) and Scritto di Gubbio (where we were staying - way up in the hills) we decided to stop there for lunch.

The vistas approaching Orvieto and from the town were just remarkably lovely as is the town itself. We parked and wandered our way up into the town. By this time we were all a bit punchy after 13 hours of travel and horrifying airlines food (why do they feed you nine forms of sugar and some meat-glue amalgam every time?).

The church on the piazza of the Duomo is stunning as is the rest of the square. Directly across from the church is Giglio d'Oro where we waited a bit for a table to sit on the square. The place was packed and the service staff of two was certainly running about. We sat and ordered three bottles of wine straightaway - one unknown to me, the others new vintages from growers that I think are excellent.

The white an Orvieto Classico ‘05 from La Carraia was top-notch and developed nicely in the glass. Cotarella deserves a lot of credit for making a typically dull wine into something of interest and depth. The 1st, and unknown red (a dud from a grower who was identified differently on the list) was quickly passed over. The 2nd red, a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from Fattoria del Cerro, the Chiusiana bottling from 2001, was stunning. Multidimensional, layered aromas and flavors - sweet leather, crispy dried red fruits, anise, orange peel, smoked pork and so on. Medium to full-bodied, firm and classical yet with ripe sweet tannins and great fruit expression.

Lunch included both satisfying and typical cooking - stewed rabbit with Tagliolini, super-eggy ravioli filled with ricotta and served with rosemary-scented butter, rich, flavorful bean soup and lamb ragu and my favorite dish, a young pig's loin stuffed with it's kidneys and garlic, served with a black olive "pesto" and swiss chard with pancetta. The Orvieto had impressive range with these dishes.

People-watching at lunch was at least as interesting on the square. Someone had parked a brand-new Ferrari, red of course, right by the restaurant in this pedestrian-only square. No one in the town could enter the square without examination of the car at the least. At the ridiculous end of the spectrum were the passers-by who were compelled to be photographed by their buddies posing with the car or posing engaged in various activities all but on top of it. This went on for our entire lunch. We sat and conjectured what the profile of the owner was of the car and where could he or she be. We did determine with only one naysayer of the four of us that the owner must be male, in his fifties, and likely dressed to prove a few more things outwardly as well.

When a policeman finally began to wander to the car one of the grandees at a very social table behind us popped up and went to schmooze the officer. The gentleman did fit our profile. He looked like an Italian version of George Hamilton that perhaps had just wandered off the golf course. He chatted with the officer a few moments - unavailingly - and ultimately got in and started his car to the entertainment of the whole square.

After a just perfect espresso and with the wind picking up and giving us a little chill, we moved on ourselves. We were off to find Castello di Petroia.

This is where we'd be staying while exploring Umbria.

Double-Dog Dare You

Recently I staged a double-blind tasting of twelve Brunello di Montalcino. Seven from ‘01, two ‘99's and three ‘99 Riserva bottlings. I served this flight of wines to our enthusiastic yet notoriously honest (read: ill-behaved) tasting group, The Dogs of Wine. They were stumped. I guess this entry will serve as their calling-out. Granted it was a member-light, substitute-dog heavy event, but I was sort of shocked.

For the first 40 minutes the wines were in their respective glasses. The Dogs offered no meaningful guesses. Although the bandwagon effect was in evidence as someone (who should compensate me for not naming them) started babbling about Rhone wines. Then a handful of others agreed.

Brunelli are no more like Rhone Valley wines than I am a Yoga instructor. This “wine expert” might as well have called out white zinfandel. Finally a member who has actually tasted a few Italian wines conjectured that there may be Sangiovese on the table. I love these guys but I am glad we don't work together. Then again, they probably aren't looking for my help at T. Rowe Price or GBMC anytime soon, are they?

The highlights of the tasting (although I was only happy with how nine showed - two were corked, one disjointed) were the wines from Valdicava and the ‘99 Riserva from Castello di Romitorio. The Valdicava wines showed singular mineral perfume and freshness and still had excellent length and power. The ‘99 giving more muscle and the ‘01 showing more depth of fruit for ageing. The Romitorio showed excellent breadth as well as depth and may have been the richest of all on the palate.